48 hours in ... Riga
Latvia's capital – where medieval charm meets modern flair – offers a whirlwind long week of cobbled streets, vibrant markets, Art Nouveau elegance, and a culinary scene that’s as rich as its history.
Friday
3 p.m. | Immerse yourself in Latvian art at the National Museum
Sometimes people prefer to wander, to get their bearings when visiting a city for the first time. But with only a long weekend in front of you, it can be beneficial to just ‘dive right in’. And that’s the perfect way to start in Riga: at the Latvian National Museum of Art. Architecturally it’s a blend of Neo-Baroque and Classicist styles. Constructed in 1905 as a purpose built museum, it’s one of the most impressive buildings in Riga’s Park and Boulevard Circle area.
Inside, the sweeping staircases and grand galleries – having recently undergone a significant renovation – showcase Art Nouveau elements, all housed beneath a stunning glass ceiling. For a taste of Baltic and Latvian art, check out works by Janis Rozentāls and Vilhelms Purvītis, two of the country’s celebrated artists who capture the spirit of the country's landscapes and cultural heritage.
5 p.m. | Explore the Art Nouveau District
A short walk away lies the Art Nouveau District, a collection of streets adorned with whimsical, elaborate façades. Here you’ll find some of Europe's finest examples of Art Nouveau architecture. The intricate details on buildings lining Elizabetes and Alberta Streets contain swirling motifs, sculpted faces, and floral patterns. Their collective effect is one of an otherworldly streetscape. For a glimpse of how the interiors match the decorative exteriors, make time for a quick visit to the Art Nouveau Museum on Alberta Street.
7:30 p.m. | Dinner at Rozengrāls
With dinner, descend into the medieval world of Rozengrāls, a candlelit restaurant nestled in a 13th-century cellar. Here, staff don period attire, creating an experience as immersive as it is flavourful. Some might say clichéd, but who cares. The menu pays homage to historic Latvian cuisine: meaning you can’t go past the roasted pork knuckle with horseradish, or indulge in a rich venison stew. Pair your meal with local mead for an authentic taste of old Riga.
9:30 p.m. | Cocktails with a view at Skyline Bar
Once you’re done with dinner underground, head to the heights at the Skyline Bar on the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu. The panoramic views of Riga's Old Town and the Daugava River are mighty fine on a clear night. In summer, sunsets start from around 10pm. The cocktail menu showcases Latvian flavours, featuring the locally inspired Riga Mule—an ‘interesting’ take on the classic with a touch of blackcurrant.
Saturday
9 a.m. | Breakfast at MiiT Coffee
Start your day at MiiT, a cozy café renowned for its specialty brews and vegan-friendly breakfasts. Believe it or not, the venue started life as a bicycle workshop that served drinks, and has evolved into a specialist vegan and coffee hot-spot. Savour the avocado toast made with locally sourced ingredients or indulge in one of their hearty grain bowls. Coffee enthusiasts will appreciate their ethically sourced beans, offering a perfect morning pick-me-up.
10 a.m. | Stroll through Riga Central Market
A stone's throw from Old Town, Riga Central Market is one of Europe's largest and most vibrant bazaars, housed in repurposed Zeppelin hangars. Here, you can sample smoked fish, local cheeses, and dense rye bread, or simply wander and soak in the cacophony of sounds and aromas. Keep an eye out for traditional Latvian honey cake.
12 p.m. | Wander the Old Town
Riga's Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, beckons with its cobblestone streets, medieval churches, and storied squares. Begin at the impressive St. Peter's Church, where an elevator clunks its way to the top for panoramic views (see pic above). Then, meander to the House of the Blackheads—a Gothic masterpiece dating back to the 14th century. It’s undergone several renovations over the centuries, thanks most recently to World War II bombs and the Soviet government demolishing most of it in 1948. The latest incarnation dates all the way back to 2000.
1:30 p.m. | Lunch at Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
Heading back underground, Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs is a local favourite, known for its Latvian-inspired pub fare and evening live music. Try the pelēkie zirņi (grey peas) with bacon (tastes better than it reads), or opt for a hearty pork schnitzel (assuming you didn’t have the pork knuckle the night before?) With a rotating selection of Latvian beers on tap—at about €3 per pint—it's the perfect spot to sample local brews.
3 p.m. | Explore the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum
For a change of pace, take a 30-minute taxi ride to the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum on the outskirts of Riga. This expansive forested museum offers a window into Latvia's rustic past, showcasing traditional rural buildings. You can wander among historic wooden homes, windmills, and farmhouses, gaining insight into centuries-old rural life.
7 p.m. | Sample modern Latvian cuisine at 3 Pavāru Restorāns
Return to the city centre for dinner at 3 Pavāru Restorāns (3 chefs restaurant), renowned for its innovative take on Latvian cuisine. Dishes blend local ingredients with contemporary flair: think birch syrup-glazed lamb; maybe salted venison with ligonberries with beer-pickled onions; or wild mushroom risotto. I was told to try their signature bread and trio of dips, but opted for the beetroot broth and cashew cream. Not sure I made the right call? Budget around 45 euros per person (food only).
9 p.m. | ‘Jazz’ it up with live music and nightcap at Trompete Taproom
Cap off your evening at Trompete Taproom, a rare and intimate jazz bar featuring live music. It's situated on Peldu Street, an area known for its lively nightlife, next to the ancient Salt Carriers' Guild. A few Latvians living overseas (in Canada and Australia) returned home to open this laid-back venue in 2016. The atmosphere is a cool mix of historical and post-industrial vibes. As a solo traveller, it provided the perfect setting to unwind with a craft beer followed by a glass of Latvian black balsam—a traditional herbal liqueur that takes some getting used to (but worth trying).
Sunday
10 a.m. | Brunch at Rocket Bean Roastery
Once the black balsam hangover has lifted, get thee to the Rocket Bean Roastery, Riga's flagship coffee roaster and brunch hotspot. It has a bit of an industrial slash Scandi feel to it with lots of blonde wooden furniture and bare brick walls. I had to have eggs Benedict. Most punters seemed to prefer the generous pancakes topped with seasonal berries. We all had multiple espressos. Just what the doctor ordered!
11:30 a.m. | Unwind with a stroll in Kronvalda Park
With our Riga adventure drawing to a close, consider a leisurely walk through Kronvalda Park, a verdant oasis where locals gather to relax by the canal. Meander across charming bridges, watch graceful swans glide by, and soak in the laid-back weekend atmosphere before bidding farewell to this most surprising and enchanting city.
TOP TIP: avoid the ‘private’ taxis if heading to or from the airport. Their prices are more than double the fare of a regular official taxi.