South Korea's best kept secret
Gyeongju stands as a testament to a bygone era, where history isn't just remembered, but celebrated in all its grassy glory.
Sometimes the random choices of travel stopovers turn out to be gems in and of themselves. Gyeongju was one such revelation. After a week in Seoul, and a flight a week later out of Busan in the south, I was looking for somewhere to break the journey up for a few days; to escape that bigger city metropolis and kick back a gear or two. And Gyeongju delivered.
It’s nestled in the southeastern corner of the Korean Peninsula. If ever the cliché describing a place where ‘time has stood still’, this unassuming town qualifies, having once been the capital of the ancient Silla Kingdom. Reminders of this royal past are starkly evident in the profusion of grassy burial mounds, or ancient tombs that stand like gentle hills on the edge of town.
At Tumuli Park, this ‘museum without walls’ invites quiet contemplation, each one a silent testament to rulers long gone.
A more overt testament, the nearby Bulguksa Temple complex (a short bus ride from town), with its impressive blend of Buddhist art and architecture, was originally constructed in 528 CE during the Silla Dynasty. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, it stands alongside the nearby Seokguram Grotto, and is home to seven National Treasures of Korea, including the iconic Dabotap and Seokgatap stone pagodas, each showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and deep spiritual significance.
Yet, Gyeongju isn't stuck in a time capsule. The unpretentious city hums with the subtle energy of everyday life, but at a slower pace. Locals pedal bicycles along tree-lined streets. And cars amble along narrow roads seemingly to defer to bike riders and pedestrians alike.
The food scene too is as rich as its history. Gyeongju is famed for its "chalboribbang," a soft, chewy pastry filled with sweet red bean paste. Another standout dish is "haemul pajeon," a savory pancake brimming with octopus and green onions.
Gyeongju doesn't shout its virtues from the rooftops. Instead, it offers a subtle invitation to delve into Korea's storied past while savouring the simple pleasures of the present.
It's a city that rewards the curious, patient traveler—not with grand spectacles, but with quiet moments of discovery that linger long after you've left its ancient streets behind.